Your Guide to Fall and Spring Perennial Cutbacks and Pruning

Be prepared with something that’s durable enough to carry and transport the cutback perennial foliage, because it will add up quickly! A large bucket or a tarp are ideal, or you could try a large basket or wheelbarrow.

Find a list of our recommended gardening tools here.

Fall Cutbacks

When the autumnal equinox rolls around, it’s time to tend to the following plants:

Bearded Iris (Iris germanica)

If fungal growth had a haven, it would be the leaves of an iris.

Cluster of tan or rootbeer colored bearded iris flowers in bloom.

Also known as German iris, cut these back in the fall to minimize fungal problems and garden pests.

Bee Balm (Monarda)

A contestant in the running for “Most Possible Mildew on a Perennial” (an award that no one wants to win) is bee balm, aka horsemint.

Beebalm with purple blooms growing in a mass planting.

Wait until fall, and then cut these to the ground.

Find more tips on caring for bee balm here.

Blanket Flower (Gaillardia)

One of my personal favorite perennials, blanket flowers are easy to prep for winter.

Flower bed with yellow and red blanket flowers in boom.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

If you like a tidy garden, cut back the flower stalks in late fall. But if you don’t mind their presence in the garden, you can leave them until next year.

Blanket flowers are sensitive to soggy soils, so avoid mulching them over the winter.

Read more about these beautiful blooms in our complete growing and care guide.

Bronze Fennel (Foeniculm vulgare)

A favorite meal of swallowtail caterpillars, bronze fennel is becoming an increasingly popular addition to gardens. Just watch out for that prolific self-seeding!

Fern-like bronze fennel plants growing in a cottage garden.

Cut these guys back to the ground in the fall.

Read more about growing fennel now.

Catmint (Nepeta)

I’ve got a love-hate relationship with catmint. It’s a fantastic plant for adding cool hues to an area, so long as you have a LOT of area for it take over. Luckily, catmint can be pruned back heavily any time of the year.

Mass planting of catmint with blue flowers growing in a cottage garden.

In the fall, you can cut these back to as low as a few inches from the ground, but you’ll have a hole in your garden until they flush back in the spring.

More modest cuts of about half the height of the plant during the fall are recommended if catmint is a foundation of your perennial border, coupled with regular summertime pruning.

Read more about growing catmint here.

Columbine (Aquilegia)

The flowers of columbine remind me of futuristic spaceships, and that’s cool… But their ceaseless self-seeding is not so cool in contained areas.

Single blue and white columbine flower.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

Pruning columbine flowers and seedpods back in the fall helps to prevent self-seeding. Otherwise, it is recommended to leave the foliage of the plant to overwinter as is.

Learn more about columbine care here.

Daylily (Hemerocallis)

I’ve always been a fan of the native daylily, even with its not-so-affectionate name “ditch lily.”

Close up of a group of bright orange daylilies growing in a flower bed.

If you leave the foliage on these plants to overwinter, they’ll offer you an unattractive but free mulch. If you want to plan ahead for an easier springtime, cut back the foliage of the daylily in the fall to save yourself a headache in the future.

Get more info on daylily care here.

Japanese Anemone (Anemone hupehensis)

Close up of Japanese anemone flowers with white petals and yellow centers.

You can leave the fall-blooming anemone standing over the winter, but if the foliage and stems turn black after frosts they should be cut to the ground.

Read more about growing Japanese anemones here.

Peony (Paeonia)

Another victim of “too much fungus!” the peony is a gorgeous bloomer that leaves an often unpleasant heap of fall foliage.

Close up of purple-red peony flowers in bloom.

Most gardeners are chomping at the bit, ready to prune these guys back at the first moment. Wait until the first hard frost, then cut the leaves back to the ground.

Read more about growing peonies now.


An ever-present feature in any perennial beds, salvia offers multiple encores of blooming and attracts desired wildlife like hummingbirds and honeybees.

Bed of purple salvia flowers growing next to a porch.

Woody salvia should be cut back regularly throughout the season by removing spent flowers, and does best when it receives a heavy fall pruning, reducing the size of the plant by about half.


A beautiful plant to have in any garden, veronica is an easygoing perennial that requires minimal care.

Veronica flowers with blue colored petal clusters.

After the first hard frost, cut veronica (aka speedwell or gypsyweed) back to a few inches above the ground. It’ll bounce back happy as a clam in the spring.

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium)

A favorite and necessary addition to any meadow-like border, yarrow offers a unique flower shape and some interesting foliage.

Yellow flowering yarrow plants growing in flower garden.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

These respond very well to fall pruning, cutting the plant back to the basal leaves.

Questions? Read more about growing yarrow and find cultivar suggestions now.

Spring Cutbacks

With the arrival of spring, these are the plants that you want to add to your pruning list:

Amsonia (Amsonia hubrichtii)

Amsonia, also known as blue star, prefers to be thrown into a high-sun environment where it can go wild growing.

Blue amsonia flowers growing in cottage garden.

Leave these standing over the winter to add some interest to the garden and encourage self-seeding.

Read more about amsonia flowers here.


Another icon of meadows and roadsides in the country, aster is a tough plant that wants to be left alone over the winter.

Purple aster flowers in bloom.

Allow it to enjoy the snow and the cold while adding some cold-season interest to the garden. For whatever reason, aster thrives on being left alone over the winter.

This lovely perennial comes in many varieties. Chinese Aster (Callistephus chinensis) and New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae)  our two of our favorites.

Learn more about managing perennial asters here.


I would have voted for astilbe if it ran for president. Delicate and pleasantly-colored foliage pairs with spires of colorful flowers. Better yet, it’s a plant that requires minimal care and maintenance.

Astilbe plants in bloom with very light, baby pink flower clusters.

The old foliage helps protect the plant from winter damage and requires minimal cleanup in the spring.

Read more about Astilbe in our detailed growing guide.

Balloon Flower (Platycodon grandiflorus)

Beautifully hued and delicate flowers adorn these beauties.

Blue colored balloon flowers growing in a mass planting.

Balloon flowers grow well in clumps, and are eager to self-seed. This means that it’s best to leave balloon flowers standing throughout the winter. They also add some interesting winter form to your garden!

Find more care tips in our balloon flower growing guide.

Black-Eyed Susan (Rudbeckia hirta)

If you have somebody close their eyes and imagine the first flower that comes to mind, chances are that it’s a black-eyed Susan. Wonderfully reliable and eager to take root in many places, black-eyed Susans are also vigorous self-seeders.

Black eyed Susan flowers  in bloom with yellow, daisy-like flowers.

If you leave them standing in the winter they’ll offer a food source to birds. Clean up the debris in the springtime.

Read more about growing these easy-to-care for self seeding perennials now.

Butterfly Bush (Buddleja)

An icon in the garden, butterfly bushes offer a wild growth habit highlighted with brightly colored conical flowers.

Butterfly bush with with flower clusters in front of a brick, single family residence.
Photo by Matt Suwak.

Leave these standing over the winter, and watch for the first signs of new growth popping out before cutting this vigorous plant back to a height of about one foot in the spring.

The image here was taken on August 16th, and the plant itself was cut back on March 15th. That’s a lot of growth!

Find more information on growing butterfly bushes here.

Coneflower (Echinacea)

Although there are a tremendous variety of coneflowers out there, most of these hybrids seem to revert or reseed back to their true purple color. That’s no problem, because these long-lasting flowers are vital food sources for various types of of wildlife over the winter months.

Close up of purple-pink coneflowers in bloom.

Leave them standing and enjoy their snow-capped flower heads being pecked apart by eager birds in need of a meal.

Find more tips on caring for coneflowers here.

Coral Bells (Heuchera)

Coral bells are a great companion to many perennial plants and can even stand on their own in the interest department. However, they are prone to ground heaving, when the frost pushes a plant up and above the surface.

Coral bells with think flower clusters with red blooms.

Leave the foliage intact on coral bells to guarantee an extra level of protection from the cold.


A perennial tolerant of just about any harsh conditions you can throw at it, coreopsis is one tough plant.

Red and yellow petaled coreopsis flowers in a cottage garden.

Leave the flowers and foliage intact over the winter. Also commonly known as calliopsis and tickseed, coreopsis prefers being undisturbed until springtime.

Make sure to read our coreopsis growing guide to get complete care instructions.


The icon of summertime, it’s important to recognize the difference between Montauk daisies and Shasta daisies.

Close up of the white flowers of Montauk daisies.
Montauk daisies.

Montauk daisies (Nipponanthemum nipponicum), which genreally open later in the year, should be treated more like a woody shrub than a perennial. Leave them alone over the winter and only cut back dead stems.

Close up of the blooms of shasta daisies with white petals and yellow centers.
Shasta daisies.

Shasta daisies (Leucanthemum × superbum), on the other hand, respond better to being left alone over the winter, and then having last year’s growth removed in early spring.


Dianthus barbatus or sweet william is a common variety.

Different colors of dianthus flowers in bloom.

You can usually leave this softly-hued perennial in place during the winter. These don’t produce much in the way of foliage or mess, and will only require a quick and light cleanup in the spring.

Read more about growing and caring for sweet william and other Dianthus flowers.

Foxglove (Digitalis)

Certainly one of the more dramatic entries in the garden, gardeners will often cut back the flower stalk of a foxglove after it finishes blooming.

Foxglove plants with purple flower clusters.

The rest of the plant can be ignored until springtime, when a quick touch-up cleaning is all that’s required.

Read more about growing common foxglove plants here.

Gaura (Oenothera lindheimeri)

Lovely flowers on spindly growth are an attractive element in the garden, but gaura is hardly a long-lived perennial.

A single light pink gurua or beeblossom flower.

Also known as Lindheimer’s clockweed, Lindheimer’s beeblossom, or Indian feather, the best chance to have these make a return appearance next year is to leave them undisturbed over the winter, so that they may self-seed.

Find more tips on caring for gaura flowers here.


Cut liatris (aka blazing star or gayfeather) back to the ground in the winter.

Blazing star Liatris plants with purple flowering spears.

Most of these have difficulty reflowering, or simply won’t, so leaving the seedheads attached during the early stages of the cold season allows the seeds to disperse and replenish the plant next year.

Read more about growing blazing star liatris here.


Probably the most well-known plant to have in the garden, these are sometimes referred to as plantain lilies or giboshi. Hosta is a vigorous and incredibly hardy perennial. I’ve dug them up and divided them in July, then sipped a cool mojito and admired their blooms in August.

Host plants with flower stalks with light purple petals.

Still, hosta prefers to have its leaves left alone over the winter, to serve as a mulch for the roots. Remove the old, shriveled material in the spring to make room for new growth.

Learn more in our Hosta growing guide.

Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium)

Let’s be honest – if a plant has the word “weed” in its name, it probably doesn’t require much care.

Joe-Pye weed with pink-purple blooms growing in a flower bed.

Lucky for us, joe-pye weed is also an eager self-seeder, and offers lovely foliage that is beloved by local wildlife.

You can let joe-pye weed stand throughout the winter and cut it back in the spring… or you could leave it standing. Joe-pye don’t care!

Read more about growing joe-pye weed here.

Lamb’s Ear (Stachys byzantina)

Watch out for those spiky flower stalks on this silver-hued, low-growing perennial! Lamb’s ear is just as easygoing in the winter as it is the rest of the year.

Lamb's ear plants with pink flowers.

You can completely ignore it over the winter, and give it a quick cleanup in the springtime.

Read more about caring for lamb’s ear here.

Lavender (Lavandula)

Like a handful of other perennials on this list, lavender is more sensitive to soggy soil than it is to the winter cold.

Blossoming lavender plants growing in a mass planting with purple flower heads.

To ensure that this fragrant staple in that sunny corner of your yard makes it back next year, wait to prune it until after the last hard frost, to protect new growth that is particularly sensitive to the cold.

Read more about growing and propagating lavender now.

Mugwort (Artemisia vulgaris)

These guys remind me of dusty miller, and for that their soft-hued, blue-green foliage is welcome in my garden!

Mature mugwort plants growing in a herb garden.

Leave it standing throughout the winter and cut it back in the springtime.


I have a lot of experience planting plumbago, but that’s because it has a difficult time making it through the winters, and because it seems to disappear in the spring! It sometimes goes by the common name leadwort.

Close up of a blue-violet colored plumbago flower.

The only trick I’ve found to knowing exactly where my plumbago will appear again is to leave the old foliage attached throughout the winter.

Russian Sage (Perovskia atriplicifolia)

After coming up with a plant list for this guide, I’ve realized how much I love the silvery-blue-hued perennials, and Russian sage is at the top of that list.

A bed full of Russian sages plants with purple flowers.

If you have room to let this guy grow, it will provide a beautiful and reliable wall of blue.

Like lavender, the new growth is sensitive and does not react well to winter cold. Wait to cut back until after the last hard frost, or when you see new growth starting in the spring.

Learn more about Russian sage care here.


“Hey, you said to cut these back in the fall!” You are correct, attentive reader – but fall cutbacks are for the woody salvia.

Mass planting of soft-stemmed salvia plants in bloom with purple flowers.

The softer-stemmed salvias that thrive in warmer climates prefer to be cut back in the spring, because their new growth is sensitive to cold.

Want to know more? Get your questions answered with our detailed salvia growing guide.


With a tough common name like “stonecrop,” it’s no wonder that these guys like to be left alone in the winter. Lucky for us, they offer some winter interest in the garden.

Purple flowering stonecrop sedum in bloom.

Sedum is one of the first plants to push out new growth in the spring, so when you see those new rosettes forming, you’ll know spring has sprung.

Find sedum growing and care tips in our guide.

Until Next Time…

And there you have it, a handy guide to perennial cutbacks that you can refer to whenever it’s needed.

Different types and colors of perennial flowers in bloom in a cottage garden.

Have something in your garden that’s not listed this guide? Let us know in the comments, and we’ll help you out!

And if you’ve enjoyed this autumn inspired guide, be sure to check out some of these:

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